New Orleans, LA Part I: Oak Alley Plantation
New Orleans, LA
It was another short drive of only about two hours from Biloxi to our next destination in New Orleans. It took us almost four years of full-timing to stop in New Orleans even though we passed close by every year when we left Florida on our way west. When we finally stopped last year, we wondered why we waited so long. We ended up really liking the good food, the laid-back attitude of the people, and the charm of the French Quarter. Did we mention we like the good food?
We stayed the same place this year as we did last - Bayou Segnette State Park. In fact, we had the same site we had last year.

As you can see from the view down the road in the next photo, it wasn't very crowded. There was a group of people around the other side of the loop most of the time we were there (those sites are closer to the bathhouse), but our side of the loop stayed relatively empty throughout our stay.
Bayou Segnette has 30/50-amp electric and water hookups only. They also have free Wi-fi. The roads, pads and patios are paved. Some sites, like ours, have wooden decks, too. The grassy sites are widely spaced.
Louisiana State Parks no longer accept America the Beautiful passes for half price camping (unless you're a resident of Louisiana or of one of the few other states that accepts the passes), so we had to pay full price of $24 a night. By the time they added a $6 transaction fee (charged by the Louisiana State Parks) and the $10 reservation fee (charged by the online reservation service), our total was $26 a night - a little high for no sewer hookups, but not bad for a nice campground near a big tourist city with 50-amp electric and free Wi-fi.
Like last year, they are still doing construction work on the levee beside the canal adjacent to the campground. Although there is no construction and it's nice and quiet on the weekends and at night, construction starts at 7:00 AM on weekdays, and you can hear the engines of the construction equipment humming and the backup beepers beeping. You can also frequently hear the thunk---thunk---thunk of the pile driver. It was a lot hotter this year in New Orleans, so we ran the air conditioner day and night for most of the time we were there. That pretty much covered up the construction noise.
This year, part of the road on the way to the campsites has been torn up and is now dirt/gravel, but at least it's relatively smooth. The road in the camping area is still paved so there's no dust around the sites.
We had a lot we wanted to do while we were in New Orleans, so we headed out the next morning to see Oak Alley Plantation. There are quite a few old plantations between Baton Rouge and New Orleans along the Mississippi River. We enjoyed our visit to two of them last year, so we decided to see another one this year. To read about last year's visits to Houmas House and Laura Plantation, click on the highlighted names.
Oak Alley Plantation gets its name from the long, double row of live oak trees lining the way from the entrance of the house to the Mississippi River. In the early 1700s, a settler built a small house on the site of the current mansion. It is he who planted two rows of well-spaced live oak trees. All but one of the trees are original which makes them about 300 years old. One was struck by lightening and had to be replaced.
Visitor parking and the entrance to the grounds are in the rear. The grounds of the plantation are well-groomed and attractive. The flowers in the photo below greeted us as soon as we had paid our admission fee and started down the walk toward the house.

There is another tree-lined walkway up to the back of the house, but the view is not as spectacular as the one in front.

The large kettles in the two photos above were used for sugar making. Sugar cane was a major crop for plantations along the Mississippi River in Louisiana. The stalks were crushed and pressed to extract the sweet juice, and the juice was then boiled in the large, iron kettles to thicken it. When the sugar crystallized, it was placed in barrels. Molasses, the syrupy byproduct of sugar making, is used to make rum.
The next photo shows the rear of the house. Costumed interpreters greeted us on the back porch and directed us around to the front where the house tours start.

As with many historic houses, photography is not permitted inside. One notable exception was Houmas House Plantation we visited last year. Not only was photography permitted, you were also allowed to sit on the furniture and play the antique piano if you knew how to play.
Our tour guide, who is shown in the next photo, told us about the history of Oak Alley.

Jaques Telesphore Roman was a the son of a prominent New Orleans family who made their money in sugar. Jacques was a Creole, which means he was of French descent, but was born in the New World.
In 1836, Jacques wanted to be a sugar grower like other members of his family, so he and his wife Celina purchased the land where Oak Alley is now located. Celina was reluctant to move out from the city, but Jacques promised to build her a grand house overlooking the river.
Jacques built the house in the Classical Revival style with 28 columns surrounding the house to match the 28 oak trees that stood in front. The porches are deep and totally surround the house to provide shade. The walls are solid brick 16 inches thick. Ceilings are high to allow the heat to rise, and there are central hallways on the first and second floors running the length of the house to allow breezes from the river to enter.
Jacques died in 1848. His widow was totally inexperienced in running the plantation as a business, so her son eventually took over. Unfortunately, pressures of the Civil War, the period of reconstruction that followed, and Celina's excessive spending forced the sale of the estate and most of the furnishings in 1866.
The property changed hands a couple of times, and Oak Alley flourished for a while. The owners who bought the plantation in 1905, however, didn't fare well. The plantation was boarded up and became a victim of the elements and the creatures that took up residence inside.
Finally, in 1917, Oak Alley was purchased by Jefferson Davis Hardin, Jr., who poured his fortune into Oak Alley in an attempt to restore it, but he ran out of funds before it was completed. Can you say, "money pit?"
In 1925, Mr. and Mrs. Andrew Stewart became resident-owners of Oak Alley. They completed the restoration of the house and installed modern conveniences like electricity and indoor plumbing. The Stewarts, who are buried on the grounds, also set up the non-profit foundation that runs Oak Alley today.
The house is furnished with pieces true to the antebellum period, but very few items original to the house remain because most everything was sold after Jacques died.
When we finished the house tour, we took time to pause for a couple more photos at the front of the house.


Then we enjoyed more of the gardens around the house.

We're not sure what the next flower is, but it certainly was striking. It's possible it is a member of the iris family. It is only about 2 inches across.

On Mondays, Thursdays and Fridays, the "Colonel" talks about the Civil War behind the house. We listened from a distance for a short time; but even though there was shade available, it was too hot and humid for us to hang around very long.

Oak Alley also has guest cottages and a restaurant on the grounds.
Before the current 15 or 20-foot levee was built by the Army Corps of Engineers following a massive 1927 flood, there used to be a grand view of the Mississippi down the rows of oak trees from the second-floor porch. However, the close proximity of the river meant there was a threat of flooding, especially in the spring. Back in the day, the landowners were responsible for their own levees, and they were only about 5 feet high. The landowners needed to work together because your protection was no better than the weakest levee.
As we left Oak Alley, which is about 50 miles upstream from New Orleans, we parked across the road and walked up to the top of the levee to take a look at the Mississippi. We have been monitoring the reports of flooding up and down the river since before we got to Biloxi.
They are predicting record floods for many areas (we already canceled a stay in an RV park overlooking the Mississippi River across from Natchez, MS due to flooding, and we're hanging loose on another stop in southern Louisiana Cajun country), but New Orleans is well-protected by levees. Even though the river is predicted to crest a little above flood stage, the levees protect to several feet above flood stage. The water at Oak Alley was high, but there was still at least 6 or 8 feet to go before the water got to the top of the levee. The crest was only predicted to be another foot or two higher at the most, and the crest wasn't expected for almost another week.

Last year, we discovered the great New Orleans tradition of the muffuletta sandwich. Did we mention we liked the good food in New Orleans? We were hungry for a muffuletta, so we stopped at a restaurant called DiMartino's to pick one up on our way back to the motor home from Oak Alley.
The muffuletta is an Italian submarine-style sandwich with meats like ham, pepperoni and salami, and with provolone cheese. Rather than a hoagie bun, the muffuletta is made using round, Sicilian bread that is 9 or 10-inches in diameter. The sandwich is topped with chopped olive salad and drizzled with olive oil.
Last year, we got great muffulettas from Central Grocery located in the French Quarter. Central Grocery claims to be the inventors of the muffuletta back in the early 1900s. Our neighbors up the road at the campground, who were locals, told us about the excellent muffulettas at DiMartino's, which is only about a mile or so from Bayou Segnette State Park. DiMartino's has tables inside so you can eat in, or you can order your food to go like we did.

When we got back to the motor home, we couldn't wait to dig in. The photo makes it look like the muffulatta is on a hamburger bun, but it's 9 inches in diameter, and one sandwich was almost more than the two of us could eat.

Wow! Central Market may be the inventors of the muffuletta, but DiMartino's sure makes an excellent sandwich. We think we like them better than the ones from Central Market, and the best part is we don't even have to go downtown to get one. The bread was outstanding - a little softer than at Central Market, and we also like the fact DiMartino's serves their muffulettas warm. Did we mention we like the good food in New Orleans?
As we said earlier, we have a lot we want to do while we're in New Orleans, so we'll have more posts coming up.