Living Our Dream

As we left Des Moines, we headed south once again on track for Branson, MO. We really enjoyed the rolling hills of western Missouri on our way to Oklahoma in July, so we were looking forward to our trip to Branson.

In order to keep our "no more than 5-hour travel day" rule, we had to find a place to overnight. Using our trusty Passport America directory (50% discount at all participating campgrounds), we selected the Outback RV with "Swimming, fishing, boating located 200 ft. from RV sites....100 ft. from Lake of the Ozarks," For some reason, I envisioned a campground with an Aussie theme (the power of word association!). Well, we figured the campground got its name because someone probably said to the bar owner who owned the property, you outta put some campsites "outback," because it consisted of 18 sites the majority with RV's in various stages of disrepair and the empty spaces were overgrown with weeds. :) We did sit out in the evening facing the Lake of the Ozarks watching a beautiful sunset...and just closed the drapes of the motor home to block our view of the cement block foundation of the bar.

We knew that Branson was on the edge of the Ozarks, but for some reason we were surprised to find out there were substantial  hills to go up and down approaching the city. Following another one of our "rules," we stopped to gas up the motor home before parking it at the campground. What a hoot to see a bus load of Chinese tourists "stretching their legs" by doing line dancing to music being sung in Chinese. Just another one of those fun "quirks" we get to see on the road.

Late August is a down time for most of the 100 shows usually available in Branson. The beginning of September is the launch of the busy season up to Christmas.  Many shows were closed but it wasn't an issue for us. At $30+/person, we chose only to see one show this visit...and we made a good choice. Yakov Smirnoff is engaging, humble, grateful, funny, multi-talented, patriotic, and generous. We didn't realize he was an artist and art professor before emigrating from Russia. His art decorates the lobby of his theater and includes pictures of his family, the lady who befriended the Smirnoff family when they arrived in New York in the late 70's with just $50 to their name, America, and Jesus. Here is a link to some samples of his art: Yakov Smirnoff's Art 

This is the mural that Yacov painted after the tragedy of 9-11 when he used his art as an outlet for his grief. He created the painting "America's Heart" including a special message that reflected his belief in the human condition. He personally paid $100,000 to have this mural hung on the side of a building at Ground Zero.

During intermission, he gave autographs and took time to be photographed with anyone who requested it. When he couldn't accommodate everyone, he promised he would be in the lobby after the show until everyone who wanted had a chance to meet him. At the end of his show, he acknowledged by name every person involved with the production from lighting, to sound, to stage hands. He ended his show philosophically with what I thought was keen insight...the breakdown in a relationship often starts with the loss of shared laughter. It is true, shared laughter seems to be one of the first things that goes in a stale or problematic relationship. I am grateful for the opportunity to learn that there's  more than meets the eye when you see a celebrity.

We also chose to take a Wacky Duck tour on old DUKWs used by the army during WW II.  We loved this tour. Here we are getting ready to embark. Unfortunately, we're not wearing our duck bill honkers. (See Photo Album 005: Branson.)

We especially liked that it was a combination land and water tour. Our guide  described points of interest as we drove by them in Branson, gave us a history of the DUKW, and gave us the history of other military vehicles parked along the private road we were on as we went to the top of a mountain overlooking Table Rock Lake and Branson.  The ride on the lake was loads of fun as the captain had the youngsters on the tour  maneuver around the  Showboat Branson Belle.  For a description and service history of this amphibious truck, go to DUKW .

Being on the prowl for inexpensive things to do in Branson, we were advised to check out the College of the Ozarks. What a beautiful campus and intriging philosophy. They have  created an  innovative work program. Not one full-time student pays a penny of tuition. Instead, students work 15 hours each week in a campus job in one of over 80 areas based on the belief and worth of work. On our visit, we found students maintaining the grounds, milking cows, working in the greenhouse, making and canning fruit preserves and fruit cake, running the power plant, working security, and providing guest services at their conference center. The college's mission is to enable students who could otherwise not afford it to get a college education  For more information about this unusual liberal arts college, go to College of the Ozarks .

Finally, we took a day trip to Eureka Springs, AR...and again it was not at all what I expected. We were intrigued because the entire downtown area of this Victorian town is listed on the National Register of Historic Places (and we wanted to add Arkansas to our travel map of the US).  :)  When we first drove down the main street, we were disappointed...only a few stores and we thought "big deal!" Lucky for us, we decided to drive up a road at the end of Main Street...and that's where we found the charming town of Eureka Springs.

Visitors have been coming to Eureka Springs for a long, long time. Although this Ozark town is known today for its incredible Victorian architecture, arts, antiques and natural beauty, the original attraction was the water.

Legend has it that the Native American tribes of the area believed that the cold spring water could cure many ailments, and the surrounding land was considered sacred ground. Victorian-age health-seekers deemed the hills full of miracle cures, and flocked to the area by the thousands, creating a stylish retreat amid the grand, green curves of nature.

Pittsburgh has nothing on Eureka Springs when building houses on hillsides. There were houses three high up the hillside (on different roads). An intriguing engineering feat. Here is one of the quaint streets in Eureka Springs.

For more history of Eureka Springs go to Eureka Springs History

To quote Yakov..."What a country!" We are finding that to be very true.

We are finishing our sixth week on the road. After leaving South Dakota, we traveled across the bottom of Minnesota and then headed south for Forest City, IA, to tour the Winnebago plant. They are a big operation and the tour was pretty non-specific. However, we did find a great city park with 50 amp, a nice bike trail, along a stream with a waterfall, across the stream from a golf course, and little used. Here's the view from our site. We ended up staying here 5 days.

One of the unexpected surprises you find when you least expect it happened in Clear Lake, IA. We came across this beautiful garden- in-progress being built by a non-profit organization, Central Garden of Northern Iowa. There are additional pictures in Photo Album 004: Travel & Observations

One of the fun parts of being full-time is being able to make spur-of-the-moment changes to your itinerary. That's just what we did when we decided to detour to eastern Iowa to visit the Amana Colonies and Iowa's Amish community in Kalona. Kalona was more English than Amish but they had good ice cream.

The Amana Colonies were founded by Inspirationalists in 1854. This group of people was part of the Spiritualist movement within the Lutheran Church founded in Germany in the early 1700's.

These German Inspirationalists practiced full communal life institutionalizing precepts concerning dress and lifestyle.  You can learn more about them at Amana Colonies. Today, there are lots of shops (which don't do us much good  :) ) and also a smokehouse and bakery where we did partake of cinnamon rolls and summer sausage.

Next, we decided to make a stop in Des Moines for the Iowa State Fair, one of the selections in the book, "100 Places You should See Before You Die" which was on the New York Times bestseller list. This state fair is HUGE and agricultural displays and animal judging difficult to find and get to. Plus, the crowds were astronomical. Additional pictures are in the photo album.

So, what has it been like since hitting the road? Paul would say that he grieved the first month, but has gotten into it now and enjoying himself. I still get a little melancholy when I think we don't have our King Charles home anymore, but it is outweighed by what we're doing. Molly seemed depressed from our leaving her in the motor home so much because of the heat. We're taking her for more walks, out on errands (while one of us stays in the car), and swimming, and she's doing much better.

Since broadening our horizons was one of the reasons we wanted to travel, we thought we'd list some of our observations from the first month.

1.  When it comes to naming cities, we’re not too original…we’ve passed Altoona, Williamsburg, Carlisle, Mercer, Buffalo, Butler,  ….to name just a few.
2. In Iowa, there are fields of corn for as far as the eye can see…but finding corn for dinner at a farm stand is just about impossible.
3. In the churches we have visited, families worship together…children and teens.
4. In the Midwest, we have seen more RVs in driveways than swimming pools in backyards.
5. Housing “plans” are not as numerous in larger mid-western cities. We’ve seen lots of apartments or condos…a number of fancier ones with porches and garages.
6. The Iowa State Fair had the best fair fare we’ve ever had.
7. Twizzlers are a must-have as we travel.
8. The Iowa State Fair showcases a lot of local talent, making it feel like more small town.
9. We personally thought the Ohio State Fair was better…surprisingly more emphasis on agriculture
10. In the churches we have visited, our hearts were warmed to see teens showing affection to parents and affection shown between siblings.
11. In Iowa, mid-grade gasoline is cheaper than regular…Paul hasn’t be able to figure that one out yet.
12. In Missouri and South Dakota, the air was cleaner...you could see forever.
13. Dry heat is still hot, but you’re not as uncomfortable as you are with high humidity.
14. Many small towns have beautiful, well-kept parks…but we rarely saw them used.
15. Many counties have beautiful parks with camping and boating facilities.
16. In rural Iowa, most side roads are gravel and dirt.
17. Overall, drivers are not trying to conserve fuel by reducing their speed.
18. In the Midwest, streets are named by  number...we shaw 440th Street in the country, far from a city.
19. Roads can have three names, i.e. Highwy 65, CR J, and 162^nd Street NW. Makes using the GPS a challenge.
20. Roads change names after crossing a highway.
21. In South Dakota, every little bar or store that has a slot machine calls itself a casino…and there are A LOT of them.
22. There are places in this country where you can travel miles and miles and see no one OR pass through a town with a population of 52.
23. Overall, life runs earlier in the central time zone.
24. Small towns do not have mailboxes placed around town where you can deposit outgoing mail. You have to find the post office.

What an opportunity we have to see how much people are the same and yet how different, too. We praise God for giving us this opportunity!

A couple of other things we visited included the Wildlife Loop, also part of Custer State Park, which passes through grasslands and rolling hills that harbor pronghorn, deer, bison, and mules...we met  some of the wildlife along the road.  Here's a link to more information about the park: Custer State Park

To think that  over a million buffalo roamed these hills  and were a  valuable  resource  that the Native American used judiciously, but the white man slaughtered, skinned, and left to rot.  What a tragedy!

We also visited Deadwood while they were celebrating their "76 Days." Deadwood is where Wild Bill Hickok was killed in Saloon #10. The  story goes that when Hickok  joined a poker game on August 2, 1876, he made a rare mistake by sitting in a chair that left his back to the door.

A drifter by the name of Jack McCall circled the table, walked behind Bill, drew a rusty revolver and fired. Wild Bill folded - forward. His lifeless hands let fall black aces and eights, known forever more as the "Dead Man's Hand."

"76 Days" are celebrated with a parade and a rodeo. It was 110 degrees the day we were there so we passed on the Wild West re-enactments and the rodeo. The parade did not have the sophistication of a Pittsburgh parade, but it had its moments. :)

It seemed like all that was in Deadwood was casinos.

After a week in South Dakota, it was time to move on. Our next "port of call" is Branson, MO traveling across Minnesota, down through Iowa (to visit the Winnebago plant) and into Missouri.

There have been a few bumps...it took a week and three trips to Wal-Marts in two different cities to get a prescription filled (I'm on Paul's plan now and we're still learning the "rules.") Molly got a bladder infection, and we had to take her to an emergency clinic in Rapid City. The warranty work we had done on the Vue before we left Wexford was not a fix, but the Sioux Falls Saturn dealer was most hospitable and helpful. We had to stay overnight to wait for a part to come in, but all is well now. Our first phone bill since we went on the road was $181+ because even though we thought we had Verizon in-calling, we didn't plus we were on hold a lot with DirecTV. But, in spite of the bumps, we have seen God's provision and care. We even got all the DirecTV  bugs worked out...it was a nice 38th wedding anniversary present. Now the next hurdle will be for me to get a haircut from a stranger. :)

For those who have inquired how Molly is doing, here is picture of her in her travel seat.

There are additional pictures in the South Dakota Wrap-Up Photo Album. After being on the road one full month, we are in the process of putting together our impressions which we'll share next time.

Within 1 1/2 hours of our home base, we could find both the spires along Needles Highway and the desolation of the Badlands.

Located in the Black Hills, Needles Highway curves and winds through 14 miles of magnificent rock formations called 'needles.'

On the other hand, the Badlands are a moonscape on earth that includes jagged cliffs, deep canyons, and sharp buttes a portion of a giant salt water sea whose floor was pushed up by volcanic activity.

Just before entering The Badlands, we visited an original prairie homestead built by a "sodbuster" in 1909. One of the few sod dwellings intack today, sod homes were built into a hillside with walls made of prairie buffalo grass because of their densely tangled roots. These homes were built by homesteaders following the enactment of the Homestead Act. The original act  declared that any citizen or intended citizen could claim 160 acres - one quarter square mile - of surveyed government land. Claimants must "improve" the plot with a dwelling and grow crops. After five years, if the original filer was still on the land, it was his property, free and clear. Although there have been many changes over the years, we were surprised to learn that it remained in effect until it was repealed in 1976.

We  could only imagine the hardship that these strong, independent people endured living on the edge of The Badlands...especially in the early 1930's. However, we were struck, too, by the civility of their homes. There are additional pictures in the photo album showing a wall-papered "living room" with a Singer sewing machine in the corner. Although the livingroom had a wood floor, the kitchen/eating area with a  bedroom behind had a dirt floor...all the while with china dishes on the table.

It wouldn't be a trip to The Badlands without a stop at Wall Drug...so named because it was built on the edge of the northern extension of the "badlands wall." Their claim to fame (besides the Wall Drug bumper stickers you can find just about anywhere in the US) is free ice water and donuts. We had two people tell us "you have to try the donuts." They were good but nothing spectacular but as I think about it...for 85 cents who wouldn't have a donut on somebody's recommendation? :) So the legend lives on. :)

We were surprised when we actually walked in to a real drug store (if you can call one two-sided shelf with aspirin and sundry other items a drug store), but in all fairness, it does have a pharamcy and a soda fountain. The rest of Wall Drug is actually an indoor mall designed like a typical western town and full of souvenirs, leather goods,a boots and western clothing shop, a bookstore, and even a traveler's chapel. And you know why you see so many Wall Drug bumper stickers across the U.S.? They're free!

I can't help but contrast the pioneers like the Sodbusters who homesteaded and Ted and Dorothy Husted who opened Wall Drug...both on the edge of the Badlands... with Paul and me. We are pioneers of a sort since our lifestyle is a bit unconventional. However, reading about these pioneers, the  common theme is a desire for independence and freedom.

It has been thought provoking to reconcile this drive we have with the sermon we heard on Sunday...that our true freedom is in Jesus Christ and independence is a dangerou illusion. We need to  embrace the truth that as God's son and daughter, we are secure and safe in our Father's heart and therefore we can trust His plans for us.

One more posting should wind up our time in South Dakota. Today we were able to relax and get some things done around "home." Molly got a much needed grooming, (she no longer looks like a melted hot fudge sundae!), Paul got the cell phone antenna booster installed in the motorhome which required drilling a hole in the roof! Yikes! and we took a bike ride on a nice trail that runs through the campground. I'm really enjoying being able to bike ride since my bad knees make walking pretty painful. The new folding bikes we got are great...although Paul misses his mountain bike...but as you can see, it's challenge to put the bikes back in the car when were done. :) Pray that we'll find a easy way to do it...Paul's threatening to put a "For Sale" sign on his! :)

Until next posting...blessings.

Paul and Margery

"Here4Now"

One of the things we have been doing as we travel from one state to another is reading from a National Geographic book entitled "Our Fifty States." Each entry includes a map, a short history of the state, state demographics and some interesting facts.

We couldn't help but recognize the recurring theme in the history of Indiana, Kansas, Oklahoma, Iowa, Nebraska, South Dakota....that the white man eventually overcame the Native Americans  destroying their way of life. It's a fact that those of us born and raised in the east can easily overlook...or be more or less ignorant about. Pilgrims and colonists seem to be our forte.  In 1891, Red Cloud, Lakota, said of the white man, "They made us many promises, more than I can remember--They never kept but one; they promised to take our land, and they took it!" It's something that is very thought-provoking and in many ways makes me uncomfortable. However, it's one of the reasons I was so anxious to travel. I need my horizons broadened. :) It's also very humbling, "There but by the grace of God go I." People have and continue to suffer so much...and we have no idea.

The Crazy Horse Memorial honors the Native American Indian. It is a mountain carving in progress a short distance from Mount Rushmore, but we found out it is so much more. It also includes an Indian Museum and Cultural Center, and there is a vision for so much more.

I was surprised to see in one of the galleries, the 23rd Psalm Indian Version. Here is a link if you are interested in reading it.   Native American Version of 23rd Psalm   I'm not really that familiar with the culture of the Native American except that they believe in a supreme being and worship him through nature, but I've never seen any where that they acknowledge Jesus as the Son of God.

Sculptor Korczak Ziolkowski was invited by Lakota Chief Henry Standing Bear to carve Crazy Horse because he and his fellow chiefs "would like the white man to know the red man has great heroes, too." Koczak never took a formal lesson in art, sculpture, architecture or engineering. (Another source of wonderment.)  He began this project in 1947 at age 40 as a bachelor but  married and had 10 children with his wife, Rose. Korczak died in 1982 but his work is carried on by his wife with 7 of their 10 children who have chosen to stay and carry on to fulfill their father's commitment and legacy.

The video we saw  at the information center, "Dynamite and Dreams," included an endearing interview with Rose who shares the Crazy Horse story. It was interesting to learn that Korczak was a strong believer in the free enterprise system and felt Crazy Horse should be built by the interested public and not the taxpayer. Therefore, it is not a federal or state project. The project is being built through monetary gifts as well as gifts in kind, i.e., a bull dozer, excavator, air compressor, etc. The video also had excerpts of interviews with Korczak telling about the early days of the work...  the first winter he lived in a tent as he built a studio-home and a 741-step staircase to the top of the mountain. He carried all the lumber for those steps up the mountain on his back.

I think Tom Heuerman, Ph. D. really captures the impact the Ziolkowksi legacy had on me. In his article, "A Vision in Stone," he writes:

"There are many lessons for individuals and organizations in the story of Korczak and Ruth Ziolkowski and their children. They include:

• The power of a personal purpose, the courage, power, and commitment provided by a great vision,
• the nobility of effort to honor the vision
• the choice of a life of service over selfishness,
• a vision that transcends the leader,
• the importance of spirit and integrity in our lives,
• the meaning created when we are part of something larger than ourselves, and
• the choice that individuals and organizations have to pursue their dreams and live courageous lives. Most organizations are mediocre.

Most people and organizations have visions that are too small for their capabilities. Most jobs are too small for the people in them."

Korczak Ziolkowski said,

         When the legends die, the dreams end;

         When the dreams end, there is no more greatness.

Here is a picture of the 1/34th scale model seen 1 mile from the mountain. Currently, work is being done on carving via dynamite the 22-story high horses head.

 

There was so much more here than meets the eye. Much food for thought. If you'd like to learn more about the Crazy Horse Memorial, check out their website: Crazy Horse Web Site

It is such a privilege to be able to travel, to be challenged by so many new experiences, and to share them.