Fort Laramie, WY
As we mentioned in our last post, several of the pioneer trails followed the wide North Platte River Valley because the valley is relatively level and the river provided a good source for the pioneers and their animals. Therefore, there are numerous historic sites relating to the pioneer trails in this area of western Nebraska and eastern Wyoming. One of the most important locations was Fort Laramie in western Wyoming.
Gering, NE is located near the Wyoming-Nebraska Border, so it was a drive of about an hour to the northwest back into Wyoming to Fort Laramie. Fort Laramie was named for the Laramie River, which flows into the North Platte River adjacent to the fort. The Laramie River in turn was named for Jacques La Ramee who was a French-Canadian fur trapper who lived in the area in the 1820s. Jaques La Ramee was killed by Indians. The town of Laramie, WY, which is located 80 miles to the southwest of Fort Laramie, also gets its name from the same river.
We
started our tour of Fort Laramie NHS with a stop in the visitor center,
which was built in 1884 as the storehouse for the post commissary. We
viewed a 15 or 20-minute movie about the history of the fort, and we
checked out the displays like the one of cavalry uniforms in the photo
below.
Paul then got into the act by trying on a cap typically used by the military in the late 1800s called a kepi. Friction between early mountain men and the Indians was rare. The mountain men traded with the Indians and frequently took Indian wives which helped establish themselves in the Indian communities. When the big fur trading corporations arrived, there was more competition for trading and for furs. Fort William, which was a wooden stockade fort, was established at the confluence of the Laramie and North Platte Rivers by a trading company in 1834 in that spirit of competition. By the late 1830s, the mountain men had opened numerous trails through the area, and emigrants began following those trails to seek their fortunes in the west. Fort John was an adobe fort that replaced Fort William in 1841. Fort John was built as a trading post to supply the pioneers because, as we learned a short while ago at Fort Bridger, the fur trade was declining by the 1840s. By the late 1840s, the trickle of emigrants had become a flood, especially after the discovery of gold in California 1848. In 1849, the U. S. Government bought Fort John and established a military post there as a place for them to restock supplies. Most wagon trains departed from Independence, MO, or Council Bluffs, IA. Fort Laramie was about 1/3 of the way to Oregon, so the pioneers would have needed supplies by the time they got that far. In 1869, the transcontinental railroad was completed making it possible to cross the plains in a week or two instead of 5 or 6 months. As use of the pioneer trails decreased, the pioneers passing through were replaced by homesteaders who were looking to stay. The settlers raised the ire of the Indians much more than the pioneers, and the military was called on to protect the settlers. Expansion of the western forts took place in the 1870s and 1880s. Eventually, Fort Laramie became the center of operations of all the military forts in the Northern Plains. Although the two
previous forts at the confluence of the Laramie and North Platte Rivers were officially called Fort William and Fort John, they
were both commonly called fort Laramie.
The new military post was officially named Fort Laramie. Most of what remains at Fort Laramie National Historic Site today is from the military post. From the visitor center we began our tour of the fort at the restored cavalry barracks built in 1874. Downstairs there were supply rooms, a tack room, a kitchen and a mess hall. Sleeping quarters were upstairs. We were impressed by the attention to detail in the displays in the barracks. The sleeping quarters are complete with rifles stacked near the door, beds that are made, uniforms and clothing hanging on the hooks and names above the beds. There was even a game of checkers in progress on one of the tables. On the grounds
of the fort are numerous restored buildings. There are also standing ruins of other buildings that have been
stabilized to help preserve them, and there are remnants of foundations of buildings. On the opposite side of the visitor center from the cavalry barracks were two bakeries. The one on the left in the photo below is the restored 1876 bakery, and on the right are the standing ruins of the newer, 1883 bakery. In addition to the attention to detail in the displays throughout the fort, we were equally impressed by the knowledge of the interpreters at various locations. The young man in the bakery explained how much work it was to keep the soldiers supplied with bread. The baker and his assistant started early in the morning by building fires in the two ovens. After measuring out and mixing the ingredients in a large trough, the dough was kneaded by hand. By the time the dough had risen, the fires had usually burned down to hot coals to provide even heat for the baking. Unfortunately, after all that work the soldiers didn't get to enjoy the freshly-baked bread. The post surgeon was convinced the yeast in the bread was still alive. In order to avoid intestinal problems for the troops, the bakers were under orders to store the bread for 24 hours before serving it, so all the soldiers got was day-old bread. The next photo shows how bread would have been stacked on cooling shelves. They still make small batches of bread to the original recipe today in the wood-fired oven to give out as samples. The bread is very dense and pretty dry. It needed butter. Next to the bakery was a garden plot. Two ladies in 19th century costumes were tending the garden. We probably spent at least 20 or 30 minutes chatting with the lady in the photo above. She was playing the role of a laundress. The Army recruited single women and widows to do laundry for the soldiers. The women received $20 a month, which was more pay than a sargent would have gotten, plus she would have received food, housing and medical care. The women were often given garden plots for their personal use.
Although the women weren't in the Army, they were subject to many of the same rules as the soldiers such as having to have permission to date and to marry. The period of commitment was for 5 years after which they could go their own way or sign up again with a recommendation from the commanding officer. Most of the buildings at the fort were laid out around the parade grounds which were used for drills and ceremonies. On the eastern side of the parade grounds there were foundations of infantry barracks where there was an archeological dig going on. At the southern end of the parade grounds was a house built in 1870 originally as the commanding officer's quarters. The house ended up being divided into a duplex for higher-ranking officers who were married. As we rounded the corner to head up the western side of the parade grounds, we passed the ruins of housing for additional quarters for married officers. There was also a drinking fountain that we thought was cute. It had steps for the kids and a lower faucet and bowl for puppies. On the western side of the parade grounds are the quarters built in 1849 for unmarried officers. This building is the oldest surviving military building in Wyoming. The building got the nickname "Old Bedlam" from the hospital in London that was the first institution to specialize in mental illness. The nickname apparently came from the noises emitted from the quarters, especially during parties. The next photo shows one of the rooms in "Old Bedlam." The attention to detail with half-empty bottles and cards on the table and a towel draped over the back of a chair makes the room look lived in. You feel like one of the officers could walk through the door at any minute. By 1890, most of the Indians were on reservations. Fort Laramie, like Fort Bridger that we saw a while back, was decommissioned and abandoned. We were really impressed with Fort Laramie. It was well worth the drive to see it. There is another pioneer landmark closer to the campground we wanted to see. We'll tell you about it in our next post.